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Walk On the Wild Side
Cuzco, Peru
August 2018
Along the railway from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, where Machu Picchu - the modern version of Mecca for tourists is located at, my hourly consumption of energy bars and anti-mosquito spray have spiked. It was a 30 KM of hike, mostly flat. Some local people, besides a few tourists, also joined this hike. They were different in the way they didn't dress themselves in Patagonia stuff with an 80L Osprey backpack, but instead, they had large bags on their shoulder, or even had their sandals on.
As a college student who just graduated back to then, I tried hard to cut my travelling costs (which I still am) - chose the cheapest flight, avoided costly activities and just learned to enjoy the wild nature. The thing is that from the town of Ollantaytambo to the site of Machu Picchu, railway is the only transportation method if you want to take the quickest path. The alternative, mostly used by locals, makes an extra 35 KM detour. Two railway companies run the express line, which are PeruRail and IncaRail. Both companies set the price of this 2-hour trip very high, around $100 for return trips.
This might sounds acceptable to tourists, because we get to enjoy a panoramic view of the nature through glass ceilings. But two issues that I discovered are that, first, the local government has made a deal with those railway companies that no new railway or road can be built next to the quickest path to Machu Picchu, such that people would only have access to this express line and the profit margin can thus be maintained.
The second issue is that, officially, local people are able to get discounted tickets for this express line, but in practice both companies do not sell tickets at discounted prices unless there are no enough tourists. This bidding process seems reasonable - afterall that's how market works. But when it comes to the difference in purchasing power between local people and tourists, it's not. Local people's financial capacities have served as extra hurdles for them to use the express line.
Out of these two reasons, I chose not to take the railway at last - but to walk on the wild side. I greeted those who walked towards the opposition direction, went down to the Urubamba River to chill, and protested against this unfair situation in a silent way.
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